Brocades In Textiles

Brocade arguably is the most widely used term in the world of weaving. However, it is often misunderstood by many the terms in sanskrit like hiranya drapi (golden drape), hiranya chandataka (golden skirt), or hiranya pesas (gold embroidered) are first mentioned in Rig Veda and the Atharva Veda. Those are the earliest references to Indian gold brocade garments, either woven or embroidered with gold.
Technically, any jacquard shuttle weaving that uses a supplementary or extra weft technique can be termed as a Brocade weave.
Brocades are essentially of two kinds. The continuous Brocade, also known as Fekuan, in weaving lingo or the discontinuous Brocade or the Kadhuan. In the Kadhuan Brocade, the extra weft does not run across the width. On the contrary, the master weaver weaves each motif individually, along with the cloth. There are no cuts at the back as there are no floating extra weft. This makes the motifs sharper, provides more creative latitude with respect to the number of colors that can be used in motifs, and also makes the fabric more comfortable to the skin due to absence of cuts. 
Kadhuan Brocade, is the epitome of handloom brocade weaving in India and is very time intensive,and has historically been the bastion of handloom weaving. Even today, the most exclusive Brocades are invariably woven on handlooms. Infact, the Kadhuan brocade, by definition, can only be woven on a handloom, taking up anywhere between eighty to a thousand man-hours to weave one saree of six yards.
The saris woven in south India are known for their long and rich gold brocaded pallu showing a predominance of animal or bird motifs, including the bull, deer, horse, tiger, elephant, peacock, parrot, swan, twin-headed eagle, and a mythical animal called yali (having a lion's head and a bird's body) or a combination of peacock and swan.
Often people are confused Brocades with Embroidery, fabrics are often embroidered upon, a term exclusive to the art of weaving that has a raised design woven into it. The designs are usually made with different colored and sometimes metallic threads. 
The fabric itself looks more elegant than most fabrics. That's why it is usually reserved for making evening gowns and formal wear.
"We may say most aptly that the Analytical Engine weaves algebraical patterns just as the Jacquard loom weaves flowers and leaves."
Jai Devanga.
GaviRangappa S P
Devanga's Vidhana.
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