How To Recognise Genuine Handlooms Sarees from Duplicate via QR code.
Duplication of handloom fabrics is common today and even textiles experts are not immune to such unethical practices. You wish to ask the Question is this an ancient or a modern phenomenon?
Indian handloom has a glorious heritage and lineage one of which is Kanchipuram sarees, during the rule of the Pallavas, handloom silk sarees was considered fabrics exclusively for royalty,and weavers were commissioned to weave sarees.
Raw materials such as silk and zari were given but it's weights was recorded. On completion of sarees it was presented to the patron who inturn weighed to check if right quantity is given back, and to ensure that the weaver has not compromised the quality of fabrics, only then next order for sarees were given.
With the decline of royalty, emergence of powerlooms, and upper and middle classes enabling them to purchase silk handloom sarees. The demand exceeded the supply enabling the traders to compromise the quality of the fabrics.
The duplication or adulteration of zari, which is considered to be the main element in a Kanchipuram saree. The zari which is meant to be pure silver thread coated in gold is sometimes replaced by plastic thread coated in gold.
Handloom sarees are woven by hand and power loom sarees by machines Hence, the structure differs in comparison. For those who wish to identify a genuine handloom, it becomes important to know how to differentiate a handloom from a powerloom are a few pointers:
1.A handloom, by its very nature of being handwoven, is bound to have a rugged uneven surface giving it an ethnic appeal. Knots, thread pulls, near the border are a commonality in handwoven sarees. Even if woven with the same yarns, a powerloom saree will be even in texture and flawless, lacking the allure of handlooms.
2.Handloom sarees are woven by pinning the saris to the loom. They often have pin marks or holes on equal distance on top or bottom of saree or near borders, known as selvedge. In a powerloom this is not so, they are flawless and smooth. So to identify a handwoven saree, look at its Bevar or edges.
3.Handloom sarees are soft in texture and more resilient whereas a powerloom saree will be stiff and hard in feel due to compact weaving and even spreading of the weft which happens in powerloom. To test the softness & its malleability, one must drape the saree and check its feel. Handloom sarees drape well.
4.The reverse side is a replica in a handloom whereas in a powerloom lot of loose threads or floats will be hanging on the reverse side, as it’s not possible to weave them in if woven on powerloom So to test, one must turn over the saree and check the backside, especially the pallav as more work goes into the pallav design.
The textile industry has grown rapidly over a few decades, technology and machinery have developed so much and has taken away the precious livelihood of many weavers.
The machines are designed to make saree faster than a weaver are also equally good. The raw materials quality is been compromised as it would enable them to make more money and customers are clueless which is a genuine or duplicate it's said traders would sell a saree which cost Rs 5000 for Rs 40,000. This margin of profit is fueling the duplication of handloom sarees in India.
Our weavers are born creative, they inherit the skill from their forefathers,and It runs in their genes. To be forced to comply with the changing face of society is not something they need. They want to stand upright with dignity, holding on to their heritage. Fortunately, there are still patrons of handloom who value art and give weightage to the time, effort, creativity and skill that goes into the making of fabrics for it connects them with its spirit and it ceases to be merely a piece of textiles.
For connoisseurs of genuine handloom sarees, researchers at Indian Institute of Technology, Banaras Hindu University have developed technology of inbuilt QR code containing details of the saree, Handloom mark logo, Silk Mark, and Geographical Indications logo, which is woven into the fabric.
"A weaver can only weave Silk fabrics, he can’t wear it."
GaviRangappa S P.
Devanga's Vidhana
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