The Journey of Workers: Weavers.

The textile industry which is the second highest job generator after agriculture and directly employing about 45 million people, has been demanding removal of rigid labour laws that hurt the smooth working of factories. 

The bone of contention has been the law prescribing that any factory employing 10 or more workers has to seek permission from the Labour Department with jurisdiction over the factory before any layoffs or retrenchment.

The government's textile policy since the fifties has made efforts to balance the growth of the large-scale organized mill sector with that of the labour-intensive informal traditional weavers communities. Weaving is an important source of earnings and livelihood for a large number of workers. However, poor capacity utilization, low productivity, outdated technology, fluctuating and volatile yarn price, inadequate access to hank yarn and high costs of production, is the reason why our youngsters don't prefer careers in the Textiles.

The industry has become so huge and complex that no single leader – brand, government, factory or union - is able to make a definitive change. Consumers and campaigners blame brands, brands blame supplier factories, and factory owners accuse unions of sabotage. There are competing interests, and the industry can’t be changed without understanding these interests and the balance of power between them.

Indian textile industry would require around 10 million trained workers. Despite the large number of unemployed youth there is shortage of skilled workers.This is because; the our education system is not oriented towards vocational skills. Indian textile industry is one of the biggest sectors in magnitude, and the second largest in terms of employment generation. 

The industry is employing nearly 4 million workers, providing a significant contribution to our economy. Textiles and apparels constitute major exports for India generating $14 billion revenue. The textile and apparel industry contributes 2% to India’s US$ 2.6 trillion economy and 17% of its export income. It is the second largest employer in India providing employment to 45 million people. Critically, the industry is the largest employer for women in India as they  make up for more than 60% of its workforce. Nationally, 60 to 80% of the workers are women in the garment sector with millions of them employed in informal, unorganised or home-based units

Growth in the textile segment will concurrently trigger growth in the ancillary industries. 

To meet these requirements, Indian textile industry would require around 10 million trained workers. Indian textile industry is facing a crippling shortage of skilled weavers which is a threat to the growth of the industry.

Workers are probably the least powerfu, however, their power increases dramatically as the unionize, and especially when they work internationally through global unions.The most powerful are national governments in demand-side countries, and the global brands. But they are not all powerful, and the competing interests of the brands means that no single lobby has the power to change the industry on its own.

India has the largest source of active weavers in South Asia, but the number of skilled workers are around 5%, while others lack professional skills.

The major drawback of India's work force is that, more than 70% of the weavers are either illiterate or educated below primary level. Due to this they are not able to explore their job opportunities, or, are unaware of ways to improve their existing skills of Indian weavers are ingrained in them for generations. 

Numerous studies have been done on the health conditions in weaving factories the results were showed that most of the workers have been impacted by unhealthy and non-safety working conditions which resulted in to 84.28 % workers were affected by respiratory problems, 43.15 % have reported an increase in muscle tone, 12% complained of eye problems and 73 % have been found affected by musculoskeletal problem. Hence, there is an immediate need to reinforce their workplace safety and health policies and implement measures in accordance with the Indian Factories Act,

The present colleges for Textiles need to change the syllabus as the industry has entered the 21st century and colleges are in the 20th century.

The industry require youngsters with a passion for textiles, our community schools and colleges need to encourage such talents this would replenish the pool of master weavers and generate employment opportunities.

Conclusion.

The best way to balance competing interests at national level in any sector is tripartite industry-wide collective bargaining; employers’ association, unions and the government negotiate legally binding agreements which cover the entire sector. Rather than negotiating factory by factory, all the unions negotiate with representatives of all the factories.

"Workers' rights should be a central focus of development." 

Jai Devanga 

GaviRangappa S P.

Devanga's Vidhana

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